a combination of crazy characters, incredible conversations, bumpy cobblestone roads, messy gorditas, missions for ice, picture-perfect moments, warm sweaters, bongo drums, horses named punto and an incredible group of friends made for an unforgettable weekend getaway.
"don't panic, on the titanic"
it is impossible to describe my experience in real de catorce without giving a shout-out to our rustic little hotel, rincon magico. i don't know how this place got started, or how this random group of hippies found each other and manage to keep the place going day-to-day (through an ever-constant haze of you-know-what), but this place was truly magical. with views overlooking the valley below, we found a little piece of perfection. our little 'cabin' had a balcony (with only one wall, mind you) with a hammock and a toilet that worked about 50 percent of the time. we put 5 people in 2 double beds and got pretty cozy, particularly because it was freezing cold in the mountains. tash hit reality hard when she realized her bikini and mini shorts were not going to cut it in the frigid air. we were all smelling magnificent by the end of the weekend, as you can imagine. back to rincon magico. the little posse included chef david, who cooked the most delicious large-scale meals for only 5 dollars a person (i can still taste the tacitos, yum!), also gave lessons on ancient instruments that he picked up in india AND forced me to dance next to a fireplace in a sleeping bag to bongo drums. true story. next was the owner. not sure of his name, but he had wavy hair that was longer then mine. finally, gabriel (or peter gabriel), who actually lives in tulum, an old hippy who plays mean bongo drums and invited us to stay at his house. he is the one who reminded us of the motto of real every day: "don't worry, be hippy!"
"they must be sensing the male domination"
one of the must-do activities in real de catorce is going horse-back riding. it is impossible to avoid the cowboys who approached you immediately on the main square. a nice young man named gerardo found us on the first night outside our hotel and made an excellent pitch. we didn't forget about him! and since the town has only a few permanent residents, he found us easily the next day. for twelve dollars, we each got to ride a horse out of the city, up a mountain to an abandoned spanish hacienda and over to a ghost town called pueblo fantasmo. i hadn't been on a horse since i was about 12, so it was SO excited. my little dude was named 'pinto or punto' and he responded relatively well to my directions. he wasn't overly competitive so i was never at the front of the pack, but i think we had a nice bond. particularly when he would find soft ground near the edge of the mountain pathway and ALMOST throw me off the edge. but he never did! thanks, punto. wandering around the ghost town and ghost hacienda was really cool. there was an abandoned mine shaft that we crawled through, an old well/elevator to drop pennies down and crumbling arches for beautiful pictures.
"this is the greatest day EVER"
do you ever just stop and realize how great life is? for elise, tash and me, this weekend was all about appreciating how lucky we are. the three of us live for amazing conversation and really enjoy actively appreciating the moment. we caught ourselves several times, deep in conversation or even meeting eyes across the room, simply soaking up the moment. the ability to be able to even live a life where we can work hard all week but still take off on adventures on the weekend is pretty amazing. the moments that were the most striking for me were certainly on the day of the rainbows. friday, during our drive, the rained off and on the whole time, and we reaped the benefits with the most incredible arc-en-ciel's that i have ever seen. the colours were so vibrant, almost like technicolour. i'll have to upload some pictures to prove it.
"the fire knows everything..."
a few times during the weekend, i went off on my own to take some pictures, to write in my journal, or to simply soak up the scenery. there aren't actually that many things to DO in real de catorce, but a lot of it is the atmosphere, or people watching. one of my favourite moments was eating gorditas with a group of drunk students who loved it that we spoke in broken spanish. another favourite moment was eating soup made out of cow's stomach lining for breakfast at a local stand and making friends with the five kids who worked there. (btw, the soup was ok.... kinda slimy) i also loved meeting three traveller's who had come to real de catorce to found an organization dedicated to improving the schools in the area. wandering around real de catorce, i felt i was living a lifestyle where i actually take time to get to know people, and to get to know myself.
"whose toothbrush is on the floor?"
i got my first taste of dirt, grime and cold in real de catorce. because we were so high in the mountains, not only were we often above the clouds, but it was also freezing cold! sweaters in mexico? i could barely believe it. we left dirty, tired, sick, cold, wearing new silver purchases (all handmade!) but content with our adventure. little did we know, it would continue on the road. i was driving, and we got pulled over at a regular check point, but the police officer was not pleased that we did not have our work VISA's. according to him, we had no way to actually prove that we were legal in the country. i kept asking him calmly, "what do you want us to do, they are being processed as we speak?", but i just couldn't get anywhere. i felt i was up against a brick wall of frustration. luckily, damon the diplomat stepped in and saved the day... not to worry. apparently this happens all the time, and the cops really just want money. i'm so proud that we didn't cave!
real de catorce is certainly one of those gems that you have to experience to believe. if anyone ever makes it to monterrey (please come!) i promise to take you there to meet the hippies for yourself. i am sure they will still be there.
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