Wildly Civilized.

Thursday morning we got up and said adios to San Pedro, heading inland. We took a short plane ride to Belize City and were immediately picked up by a representative from the Lodge at Chaa Creek. My mother meticulously researched this perfect jungle lodge, and in this case, her (sometimes annoying) planning personality really paid off! The lodge is nestled on the banks of the Macal River, about 15 minutes from San Ignacio. We are right in the middle of the jungle, in the Cayo District of Belize, which is right on the border with Guatemala. At its widest, Belize is only 64 miles wide, making it an accessible size; but it is also diverse with ocean, jungle, mountain, forest and wetland (in fact, everything except desert).

When we got picked up, we were driven quickly through Belize City. Apparently it is a gritty city, with gang and drug activity. Not the kind of place you want to get stuck in the wrong place at the wrong time! Our guide said that even locals drive quickly at night with all their doors locked. In Belize City there is clearly a safe and rough side of the tracks, as they say. On the way to our jungle lodge, included in the transfer, is a stop at the Belize Zoo. However, this is not your average zoo – it is the loveliest little zoo in the world. The animals are ALL native to Belize, and they are in their natural habitat. The animals are only in the zoo if they were injured, found (for example, if they had been kept as pets) or born there. An American lady named Miss Sharon started the zoo, quite by accident. She came down to Belize to help with a documentary on animals, and when the project was abandoned she was left with animals in her care. She realized that Belizeans did not know enough about their own wildlife species, so she started the zoo for educational purposes. We were taken around by a knowledgeable guide, and were taught all about the animals native to Belize, but Miss. Sharon’s signs are adorably hand-painted with rhymes, explaining the risks of endangerment of the various species. Normally at zoos I feel uncomfortable with the treatment of the animals, but this place is certainly one-of-a-kind. Highlights included the jaguars, paca…

About an hour after leaving the zoo, we had entered the Maya Mountains and arrived in San Ignacio. We got a little tour (particularly noticing the above-ground graves) and learned about the monopolies that exist in Belize. One man owns the only company that manufactures toilet paper in Belize as well as the only company that imports canned goods – they say he has people coming in and going out! We drove along a bumpy road, advertised by our driver as our “free massage” for the day, and arrived at the Chaa Creek Lodge. This lodge has won a myriad of awards – and for good reason! Ti is like going to fancy jungle camp! The grounds are beautifully manicured, the little cottages are tastefully decorated, and there are shades of luxury with the new infinity pool and jungle spa. The lodge began in the 70s when a young couple were traveling in Belize and were offered to buy a cheap piece of jungle land. At first they started a garden, selling their produce in San Ignacio by paddling it down-river. Then, as travelers began hearing about them, they would come down and stay in their single guesthouse. Eventually, they began to expand and haven’t stopped. There are an innumerable amount of day trips that can be arranged through the lodge and their all also a ton of activities on sight that are included.

Our first afternoon, we settled in – I ran straight for the hammock on our deck. We ate a fresh lunch, explored the grounds, read all the literature about the onsite activities and off-sight adventures, walked down to the river, ate a five-course meal (my first jerk-style seafood), and finished off the evening with a dice game in our little palapa cottage. The next day, our first full day, we stayed onsite – we took advantage of the guided tours that are ALL included. We went up to the butterfly farm (a brilliant blue morpho species that is used for education), explored the little museum, spent the afternoon reading by the pool (a few too many families for a teacher trying to escape kids!) and ended the day with a guided sunset canoe ride. Mom and Auntie Diana are loving the morning birding, while I am loving the chance to sleep in and go to bed early! There is something for all.

This place is like camp for grown-ups, except with better food, and oh yah - we’re in the jungle in Belize. Pretty perfect.